January 28, 2016
[…] If you want to adjust settings even more, you can use a slicing program, like Cura, to adjust infill, wall thickness, brim presence, and more. Save your model as a .gcode file (also known as a “toolpath”) and it will create code that will instruct your MOD-t to take heed of your alterations. You can print this specialized .gcode through the New Matter desktop app. From the main page, click on “Settings” and then “Advanced Mode.” Your app will prompt you to load your .gcode file and then your MOD-t will load and print just like it would a New Matter Store design or an .stl upload. (You can get Cura profile information by emailing us at firstname.lastname@example.org. Learn more about formatting models for the MOD-t here.) […]
January 29, 2016
I’ve written New Matter twice about obtaining the Cura profile and have never heard back. I keep reading to email, and I do, but no response.
February 2, 2016
Love these! The mini planter and Las Vegas bookends are my favorite. Thanks for the roundup 🙂
Emojis! My niece would love those.
Thanks for the roundup!
Can you do a post on best things to print in under 2 hours?
February 3, 2016
Please make more emojis! It’s my favorite collection. I want all of them! Poop, unamused, sleepy. Especially sleepy.
I had a couple of prints that slipped off, but the wire brush trick helped tremendously. Worked like a charm.
I’ve heard of using painters tape but not aquamet. I’ll
Have to give that a try.
February 4, 2016
I’ve also started to notice height calibration issues as the plate is slightly bowed upwards. The head calibrates a little too high and then the PLA extrudes away from the plate. I’ve resolved this by turning the plate round so the new matter logo is ‘upside down’. I’ll also see if I can flex the plate back to straight.
The 3×3 Puzzle Cube is a great conversation starter! I had some guests over at my house and they loved trying it out. Bonus points for watching my friends struggle trying to solve it when they realize how deceptively difficult it is.
Printed a few things without scuffing the build plate. Once i noticed a corner of my print slightly lifting off the plate, I tried scuffing it a bit with the wire brush. Worked like a charm. Definitely stocking up on these plates. They’re super low-maintenance.
[…] we mentioned in our Build Plate Maintenance post, the MOD-t uses PLA – a plant-based, non-toxic filament. PLA behaves like many other […]
I love the space decals! I printed stars in pink and a moon in natural. I brought them over to my favorite record store and added them to the David Bowie memorial.
February 5, 2016
After printing, I usually unload the filament and put it in a vacuum sealed bag. But sometimes I forget to unload or can’t so as soon as I start a new job I do and unload and clip the filament off at the spool and start a new thread through. It has helped me run over 100 jobs on my printer!
February 9, 2016
Sweet! I looooove the woodland creature keychains. The hug business card holder is adorable!
That’s a great tip to store filament in a ziplock bag. I was wondering about that because the filament I bought came in a vacuum bag, but I wasn’t sure of the expected shelf life of the filament.
February 11, 2016
[…] For extra control over your print (such as infill, brim, or orientation edits), we suggest using Cura, an easy-to-understand slicing program. Slicers break down designs into layer and create code to tell your printer how to extrude to create your print. Using Cura, you can rotate, flip, scale, multiply, alter, and slice designs with ease. You can even make your Cura display mimic the size and characteristics of a MOD-t to help increase your print success. […]
[…] or an .stl upload. (You can get Cura profile information and learn how to use Cura with the MOD-t here. Learn more about formatting models for the MOD-t […]
“Forever Alone” lulz.
February 12, 2016
February 19, 2016
[…] Part of what makes the MOD-t great for homes, schools, and businesses is its lightweight, compact size. Designers should take heed of this space-saving design when sizing their models. The overall MOD-t printing envelope is 150mm x 100mm x 125 mm. You can set your file-viewing program to these specifications to test your design sizing before sending your .stl or .obj file to print. (Get our Cura profile information and learn more about using Cura with the MOD-t in this How-To blog post.) […]
Can you make a San deigo bookend? ?
February 22, 2016
Great suggestion! I’ll pass this request along to our design team!
February 25, 2016
Can’t wait to try it! Will I be able to crank up the temp on the print head to 220c? I have some awesome wood filliment the that could use a little more heat to smooth out the lines.
February 29, 2016
You can adjust the heat settings to 220, but no higher. Not sure what your specific filament recommends, but higher temperatures don’t always yield smoother results. When using specialty filaments, print at your own caution! When the filament has a fill, like wood or metal, it can damage the build plate and/or damage the MOD-t. Happy printing!
March 10, 2016
What’s the software on the upper screenshot? This update is very welcome and useful but having a more technical status monitor of the print would be so nice… With a CANCEL button (from the print queue store too!!!)
March 14, 2016
The software in the main photo is just for show and not related to the MOD-t, but we’re glad you like the update! You can cancel prints by pausing the job and then holding the front panel button for 8-9 seconds. You can read more about using the front button to cancel jobs here!
March 11, 2016
This is awesome! Thanks New Matter!
Thank you so much for choosing Edwin Markham Elementary, Vacaville, CA, as a recipient of the Educate and Inspire grant. We are building our C-STEM program little by little, and the generous gift of two state-of-the-art MOD-t 3D printers is huge! Our 5th and 6th grade roboticists will soon be eagerly designing and printing parts for our Barobo Linkbot robots! And, as we role out the Next Generation science standards next year, we’ll be sure to put the printers to good work as we explore real-world engineering principles, etc. As a Title I school serving a large English learner and economically disadvantaged community, we can’t begin to express our gratitude for giving us the resources with which to connect our students to amazing C-STEM career pathways and passions. This summer, the migrant education summer program will also be able to exploit the powers of 3D printing (since Markham Elementary hosts this venture). So, it’s a double win for our kids!! THANK YOU!!!!
March 13, 2016
This is so great.!
I am sorry I missed the opportunity. Will you be running another grant session soon?
We’re sorry you missed the application period! Unfortunately, we do not have plans to run another grant any time soon, but you can learn more about educator discounts on the MOD-t on our education site!
Make sure the screws on the little metal pads the indicator touches on are tight and make sure that the metal stud is completely clean. I had a print mess up and I had some residue that had caused it not to pick up for a while. I spent an hour leveling mine this morning–I found out that even though my glass is level, the pads themselves aren t exactly perfect with the glass.
Yahoo! Students are pumped for these to show up soon! They’re already working on designs!
March 16, 2016
My MOD -t does not touch the plate. It seems that it is too low and when the filament hot enough it melted down as a rubbish on the plate. How can I adjust it a little higher to receive and print at the right position level?
March 18, 2016
The MOD-t will auto-calibrate before every print, so it should home (calibrate height) correctly next time you print. If your printer is consistently homing high or low, feel free to contact our customer support team! You can find their contact information on the Customer Support portal.
March 23, 2016
Congratulations to all these schools! So happy for the teachers and especially the students!
March 25, 2016
I’m confused by what is actually happening on the third step, when it is bouncing left to right. It seems that the nozzle is actually touching, ever so lightly at the end. If it isn’t, I’m not sure what it is the system is looking for to indicate a good calibration. The nozzle starts higher up and on each pass lowers slightly until it touches it, or at least that’s what it appears to do. In fact, if I lightly touch the plate and let it drag once or twice under my finger, it will stop the process and proceed to print from that height.
Am I missing something non obvious?
March 28, 2016
Hello! In the current homing routine, the carriage moves down the z-axis while the plate is moved across the Y-axis. This is done so that the system can detect drag on the Y-axis by the Z-axis. Once the hot end just touches the plate, there is a significant change in Y-axis drag and we detect that to be Z0. It’s all just part of our feedback system. Hope that helps!
Would you please add a verbose status to the desktop app that shows “Cooling hot end…”, “detecting rough z-axis position…”, “Warming up hot end…”, “Refining Z-Axis position…”, “Wiping my nose…”? Some times it takes longer than others and a thermal gauge (like you see when changing filaments) with a description of what it’s doing would be really nice to see. Thanks!
Great suggestion, Jim. We’re actually working on updating our calibration process now. Our updated calibration process will be significantly faster, so it might not even be necessary to know what step your printer is on. I can’t say much more, but you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how much faster calibration will be!
March 29, 2016
I have noticed that Masking tape works much better than painters tape and it lasts longer than painters tape. I get 10-20 prints off of the tape before replacing, however, it is a much cheaper option for around 2$.
March 30, 2016
I could see Masking tape being a good option because of its texture, too. Great tip! Thanks, Andrew!
This is so awesome! Congratulations Casimir and I hope you make a lot of other great inventions with your MOD-t!
This is amazing, I had to share with all my skater friends. Excellent job with the nut holder!
April 22, 2016
[…] can use 3D printers to engage students and make any lesson hands on. Just check out the plans one of our grant-winning schools has for the MOD-t. Teachers can print manipulatives, students can rapid-prototype design ideas, robotics clubs can […]
April 30, 2016
Handy post! kiiinda sucks that you’re going to have to completely redo it for cura 2.1 which is extremely different and takes .JSON files
May 5, 2016
At this time we recommend MOD-t users install and use Cura version 15.04.3 to create G-code for their MOD-t printer. This version of the software is easy to use, and contains all of the features you will need to generate great G-code for your MOD-t. We will continue to evaluate our recommendation as newer versions of the Cura software are released, but for now we recommend MOD-t users continue to utilize the 15.04.3 version of the Cura software.
January 13, 2017
Any decision made on a new Cura 2.X profile for the MOD-t?
I would highly appreciate it. Cheers, Frank
May 1, 2016
it would be great to be able to print gcode from my New Matter Library website. any idea if this in the works or if I will always need to hook up my computer to print gcode?
Hello! At this point it is not possible to print G-code through the New Matter Store. We may add that functionality in the future, but we have nothing to announce at this time.
This is a great article and I have successfully printed using Cura But I have a question…..How to I pause a print mid stream so I can do an insert in the 3D print. For example..a captured threaded insert…
1) Watch the printer and pause it as required…not very practical considering you would be hovering over your machine for hours
2) Is there some feature in the software that would allow this that I are not aware of?
3) Could I dissect the G-code Z axis (it is the Z is it not?) and determine where to add an M1 or whatever code would be used to pause the print. I could then place the insert in the part and resume printing.
4) I am open to suggestions
Any help would be greatly appreciated
You can insert an “m25” command (without the quotes) into the G-code to pause the MOD-t and return it to a neutral position. Once you are done changing the filament, you can then press the front panel button once to resume the job.
May 6, 2016
Thanks Madison…And where might I find a list of the g code protocol used by New Matter. In my experience with G-code for pause is M1 and G25 is tool clamp…thanks again…
Looks like a nice update,
one doubt, when unloading the filament it should go backwards and come out alone? Or I have to pull it out?
May 11, 2016
It should come out on its own. If you’re having difficulties with the unload process, check out the support page or read this blog about unloading and loading filament. I find that sometimes, a slight tug helps me with a tricky unload and that specialty filaments I’ve sourced elsewhere tend to give me the most trouble. One thing to watch out for: don’t tug too hard! If you use extreme force or a tool to tug, you could rip the Teflon from the hot end. Hope that helps!
May 9, 2016
Concerning “Print Speed and Quality” – do we have to adjust something to profit from these changes when using CURA? I still use the profile you provided some months ago in the FAQs…
No! If you’ve updated the firmware, your print quality and speed will improve regardless of how you send the print. You can, and should, use the same profile in Cura.
May 12, 2016
Nice! Good to know support and enhancement is on-going. Never regret buying the Mod-T
May 17, 2016
The real razor blade works wonders for maintaining your build plate! It gets the nose wipe strip of filament on the side of the plate in one clean scrape. Just be careful not to scrape too hard, you can literally scrape off pieces of of the build plate.
May 20, 2016
AutoDesk’s Fusion should really be a part of this list since it is free, powerful, and supports special 3D printing functions.
Great suggestion! Thanks!
My favorite right now for solid modeling is OnShape ( http://OnShape.com ), it’s cloud-based (like the Mod-T), is free for plenty of projects to start with and can export to STL for import into the New Matter store. It’s really, really, really good.
Dont forget Rhino3D!
May 24, 2016
About how long should the calibration process take? Mine has been on Calibrating Carriage (step 2 of 2) for at least thirty minutes which seems extremely long without actually printing anything yet.
May 31, 2016
May I ask what firmware you’re using?
May 25, 2016
That is awesome. It just keeps getting better.
May 27, 2016
I’m wondering, with varying fill density, can we figure our some engineering properties of standard shapes? I’m talking things like stress and strain, Young’s Modulus etc. for square bars, round bars etc.
May 28, 2016
What brands of “peroxide-based cleaning spray” have you used successfully?
We love this spray! http://www.maintex.com/page/oxy
June 1, 2016
You can also use ethyl acetate fumes to smooth out prints, however this is definitely not for kids. Also be sure to test it as it can have different results depending on the filament.
Same general principle as the abs smoothing procedure except you’re using ethyl acetate instead.
June 4, 2016
At the Consumer Electronics Show this January, companies showed off their 3D-printed wares like useless plastic tzotchkes, models, and toys. But once the gimmick of printing something out of plastic wears off, the question remains—why do we need these in our homes again?
I would be nice IF I could buy a new Hot End to go with these instructions.
June 6, 2016
Hello! We’re planning on selling replacement hot ends, but in the meantime, we suggest contacting our customer support team for replacement hot ends.
June 10, 2016
Thank you – more stuff to play with 🙂
September 9, 2016
As an additional consequence, increasing surface area often does little to enhance the strength of the adhesion in this situation. This follows from the aforementioned crack failure – the stress at the interface is not uniformly distributed, but rather concentrated at the area of failure.
September 10, 2016
These are really cool software but I feel Sketchup in trending these days in the industry.
December 8, 2016
How can I control the motion and temperature of the machine using machine control on my computer?
December 23, 2016
Amazing! Fun to read. Thank you for annotating the slides and posting.
December 24, 2016
There are several CAD (3D design programs) that work for designing 3D printable models. These programs vary in levels of detail and difficulty, spanning from simple shape-building programs to intense design programs used by professional designers around the world.
December 26, 2016
Do we have to apply and sticky surface for the print to stay on the Build Tray?
January 11, 2017
My printer “stuck” on the calibration phase. The tray itself is only going left and right. Some of the filament has also melted out of the nozzle in a line and now is touching the printing tray. The nozzle itself is still in it’s highest position and has not moved.
I’ve ran successful test prints, but now I’m simply trying out to print out a ball.
I have unloaded and reloaded the filament, and made sure the tray is resting on the correct grooves.
February 16, 2017
I have been facing the same issue. Any luck with getting un stuck from this ?
January 25, 2017
It has been a whole year since this post was released. Any plans to provide a Cura profile for Cura 2.x? Or to simply provide the settings you used in the above profile so we can create one ourselves?
February 8, 2017
I am trying to get it to work – check thingyvierse there is a profile there but i have not yet tested it.
February 1, 2017
Awesome! Post. Thanks for shearing your secrets about 3D. I am really searching last few hours for such type of info and finally i got. once again thanks.
February 9, 2017
I NEVER use the unload feature. it is much easier to just cut the existing line just above the unit and do a LOAD. let it get pulled through and then load the new line. I would remove the unload feature and combine both for a 100% success rate.
March 15, 2017
I’ve definitely had this happen. I always wondered if this would still happen if I just used Cura for printing instead, but haven’t had time to make the switch yet. Are people experiencing the same thing with Cura? Or is it just through your web based interface?
March 17, 2017
Hey David, it is definitely not something that is caused by the slicing method so if you’re seeing shifting, the move to Cura most likely wouldn’t be the fix. Let us provide you with the locking bars! Shoot an email to hello[at]newmatter.com and we’ll get you taken care of!
March 20, 2017
I agree with Daniel..
April 1, 2017
Should you unload filament after every print? Thanks a lot!
April 4, 2017
Hi Logan, since exposure to the environment can potentially cause the filament to dry out or become brittle over time, we do recommend keeping it stored in Ziplock bags whenever it isn’t in use. The best way to go about unloading filament after it has cooled off inside the unit is by using the procedure in this link: http://support.newmatter.com/customer/en/portal/articles/2228282-stop-don-t-use-the-unload-functionality-in-the-software- we don’t recommend using the unload option.
April 10, 2017
We did this for the first couple of prints, but it’s messy and degrades the print surface. Now we use 3M blue painter’s tape, new tape each time we print. Adhesion is great, and we aren’t creating tons of black powder every time we need to start a print.
April 13, 2017
I was looking to build something like this. Nice work. You should have my email now. Thank you
I have utilized these devices myself for a while now, and they work quite well!
The unloading portion of this article is no longer reverent as the unload button has been removed. I actually prefer the unload feature as I change colors a lot and the filament that is extruded will eventually add up to a lot of waste.
Edit to my previous comment: The unload button was removed from the web interface but is still available on desktop utility app.